Common Mistakes in Dressmaking – and Why They’re Nothing to Be Ashamed Of

Let’s start with a little secret: even after decades of sewing, I still make mistakes.

Seriously. I’ve chosen the wrong fabric for a pattern, sewn sleeves on back to front, and spent hours unpicking something I should’ve basted first. It happens. That’s the nature of dressmaking, it’s as much about learning and experimenting as it is about technique.

So if you’re new to making your own clothes, or even if you’ve been sewing for a while but still feel like you’re ‘doing it wrong’ - just take a deep breath. You’re not. You’re just on the journey.

Here are some of the most common pitfalls I see, and some gentle advice on how to sidestep them.

1. Choosing the Wrong Fabric for the Pattern

This one catches a lot of people out. You fall in love with a fabric (we all do), and decide you must make something with it, but then the garment doesn’t hang quite right, or doesn’t feel as comfy as you hoped.

Each pattern is designed with a certain fabric type in mind. For example, a flowy blouse needs something soft and drapey like a viscose or lightweight linen. Whereas a structured shirt will shine in a crisp cotton or chambray.

Tip: Always check the pattern suggestions and don’t be afraid to ask for advice. Your fabric retailer should be able to point you in the right direction to help you match a pattern with the most suitable fabrics.

2. Not Making a Toile (or Mock-up)

I know, I know… you just want to get on with it.

But making a toile - even a quick one - helps you understand the pattern, check the fit, and make any adjustments before you cut into your proper fabric. It saves frustration later, believe me, especially if you’re working with precious fabric or trying a new pattern for the first time.

Tip: Use an old sheet, calico, or any similar weight fabric. It doesn’t have to be perfect, it’s there to help you build confidence.

3. Skipping the Pressing

It’s tempting to rush through and skip pressing seams, hems, or darts. But trust me the ‘press as you go’ mantra will serve you well. Pressing properly will completely transform the look of your finished garment. Setting the seam - pressing the seam flat as it's been stitched helps to ‘set’ the stitches into the fabric. This will make the seam just lay better within the whole garment. 

Not only does pressing make things sit beautifully, it also helps with accuracy, especially in areas like collars, facings, or zips.

Tip: Keep your iron handy while you sew. A little steam, a good press, and a tailor’s ham or sleeve roll can work wonders. 

4. Overcomplicating Things Too Soon

We’ve all done it. You buy a tricky pattern because it looks fabulous on Instagram and dive right in… only to get stuck halfway through and lose your sew-jo. 

Complex projects are fantastic when you’re ready, but when you’re still building confidence, a simpler project that goes well will give you a much bigger boost,  and a whole lot more satisfaction.

Tip: Start with something achievable like a top with no fastenings, a pull-on dress, or PJ bottoms, and then build your skills from there. (Our beginner workshops are great for this too.)

5. Not Measuring Yourself Properly

This one is so easy to overlook, but it makes a huge difference. Your dress size in the shops doesn’t always reflect your actual measurements, and guessing or assuming can lead to a poor fit. Always keep the tape measure horizontal when measuring around yourself, or anyone else. And also bear in mind that different designers use varying amounts of ‘ease’ in their patterns. I am generous with mine, as I prefer a loose and comfortable fit.  So this means that you may want to go up or down a size depending on your own fit preference.

Tip: Get a friend to help you take accurate measurements (we’ve got a guide on our website) and compare them to the size chart for the specific pattern. Each designer has their own blocks, so don’t assume a size 14 in one pattern will match another.

6. Not Trusting Your Instincts

Patterns are a starting point - not a rulebook.

One of the joys of dressmaking is making things your way. If you feel like a neckline is too low, or you’d rather a dress had pockets, or you want a longer hem - you can change it! You’re the designer now. 

Tip: Give yourself permission to tweak. Start by marking up your toile or paper pattern, and play with variations. It’s all part of learning your own style.

7. Comparing Your Work to Others

This one’s more emotional than technical, but it’s so common, especially in workshops where you can sometimes get people with differing levels of experience and technical know-how. 

You also see beautifully lit photos on social media and think, “Why don’t my clothes look like that?” But what you’re seeing is often the highlight reel - not the behind-the-scenes struggles, mistakes, or half-finished piles.

Tip: Be kind to yourself. Your journey is your own. Every stitch is a step forward, and every garment teaches you something. Which is also the benefit of joining a workshop and gaining from working alongside those with more experience who are happy to share their knowledge.

 

8. Using the Wrong Needle or Thread

It seems like a small detail, but using the wrong needle can cause all sorts of problems, from skipped stitches to puckering.

Tip: Use a universal needle for stable wovens, a ballpoint for jerseys, and a microtex for lightweight fabrics like silks. And if your thread keeps snapping, check it’s good quality and not too old - yes, thread does go off!

 

9. Not Following the Grainline

Grainlines are one of those sneaky things you don’t always understand until it goes wrong.

If your fabric isn’t laid on grain when you cut, your garment can twist or hang strangely. It’s especially important with trousers, skirts, and anything with a straight seam or drape.

Tip: Make sure your fabric is ‘true’ first. Follow the weave across the fabric to make sure it sits at right angles to the selvedge. Take time when laying out your pattern pieces. Use a ruler or a pattern master to measure from the grainline to the selvage and make sure it’s even all the way along. 

10. Not Asking for Help

You don’t have to figure it all out alone.

Whether it’s fitting advice, sewing techniques, or just a nudge in the right direction - there’s always someone who’s been there before. And there’s absolutely no shame in asking. One of the wonderful things about creativity and sharing knowledge is that it doesn’t diminish - it just keeps growing. 

Tip: Join a sewing group near you, come to a workshop, or drop us a message. I am more than happy to help and support you - no matter where you are on your sewing journey.

 

 

A Final Word

If you recognise yourself in any of these mistakes, know this: you’re not failing. You’re learning. And every person who’s ever made their own clothes has been right where you are - frustrated, excited, proud, and sometimes completely bewildered.

Dressmaking is a skill. It takes time, patience, and practice. But it also brings joy, creativity, and the incredible feeling of wearing something you made with your own two hands.

So go gently. Celebrate your progress. And remember: I’m right here beside you, cheering you on.

Jules x