Darts are one of the simplest — and most effective — methods of shaping fabric - removing a little wedge of fabric so the flat cloth can mould around the curves of the body. In pattern cutting, we sometimes talk about suppression - where the fabric is suppressed into the shape we want. Darts are the simplest form of suppression but there are many others.
Whether you’re sewing a classic bust dart in a blouse or a fishtail dart at the back of a dress, neat stitching and careful pressing make all the difference to the final look of your garment. In this tutorial, I’ll show you how to mark, sew, and press both basic darts and fishtail darts so your sewing looks polished inside and out.
What Are Darts?
A dart is essentially a wedge of fabric stitched together to shape a flat piece of fabric around the body.
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Basic dart – A single wedge, often placed at the bust, waist, or hip, to create shaping where it’s needed. The point of the dart acts as a pivot and usually sits at the apex of a curve such as the bust, shoulder blade, or buttock. In pattern cutting terms, that point can be “pivoted” to different positions, depending on the design.
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Fishtail dart – A longer dart with two points, most commonly found at the back waist of dresses, skirts, and jackets, or under the bust at the front. It takes in at the waist and releases above and below — into the bust, hip, or seat — for a smooth, tailored fit.
Step 1: Marking Your Dart
Accurate marking is the key to a neat finish.
1. Transfer from the pattern – Use tailor’s chalk, a washable marker, or tailor’s tacks to mark the dart legs (the two sides of the dart) and the point
2. Fold and pin – With right sides together, fold the fabric along the dart centre so the dart legs line up. Pin along the legs, checking the fold runs smoothly to the dart point.
Step 2: Sewing a Basic Dart
1. Begin at the widest end of the dart (waistline, seam, or edge).
2. Stitch along the marked line towards the dart point.
3. As you near the point, shorten your stitch length slightly. Aim to follow a soft curve into the point — like cresting a gentle hill — and finish right on the fold.
4. Instead of backstitching (which can cause puckering), try this method: drop the needle into the fabric just before the end, lift the presser foot, pivot the fabric, and sew a couple of stitches into the dart bulk. Alternatively, sew off the edge and tie the thread ends into a knot.
Tip: For bust darts, let the fabric feed naturally under the presser foot. Don’t pull it flat - this helps keep the shaping soft.
Step 3: Sewing a Fishtail Dart
Fishtail darts are stitched in two halves. But you mark them in the same way as a basic dart.
1. Fold the dart along its centre, matching the dart legs.
2. Start at the waistline - the widest point - and stitch towards one dart point, tapering neatly at the tip.
3. Finish the same way you would a basic dart (pivot back or knot threads).
4. Return to the waistline, flip the fabric, and sew towards the second dart point in the same way.
The result is a long, double-ended dart that shapes smoothly above and below the waistline.
Step 4: Pressing Your Darts
This is where darts transform from stitched wedges into sculpted shaping.
Press from the wrong side first to set the stitches into the fabric. Then press the dart bulk downwards if it’s close to the armhole, or towards the centre front/back if it’s vertical. Start from the wrong side so the tip of the iron reaches into the point. Then press again from the right side over a tailor’s ham to preserve the curve.
Press from the wrong side so the tip of the iron reaches into the point.
Then press again from the right side over a tailor’s ham to preserve the curve.
Extra tip: To stop the dart seam showing through on the outside, slip a piece of card between the dart and garment while pressing.
Always press wrong side first, then lightly on the right side with a pressing cloth.
Remember: You’re moulding, not flattening. Keep the 3D shape intact.
Common Pitfalls to Avoid
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Puckering at the point – Often caused by backstitching at the tip or stopping too far from the edge. Always taper right into the fold and finish by pivoting or tying off.
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Crooked darts – Before sewing, fold the dart closed on the pattern piece itself. If the edges align smoothly, your markings are accurate.
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Flattened shaping – Skipping the ham or seam roll can squash your dart. Always use pressing tools to keep the sculpted curve.
Final Thoughts
Darts are a small detail that make a big difference. Neat stitching and thoughtful pressing instantly lift your sewing from “homemade” to professional. Once you’ve practised a few, you’ll see how much they transform the fit and feel of your garments.
So next time you’re sewing, take a little extra care with your darts. It really will make a difference!
Jules x