When we talk about making your own clothes, most people think about the glamorous parts: choosing fabric, cutting patterns, stitching pieces together. But there’s an unsung hero in the sewing room — your iron.
I know, it doesn’t sound exciting. But pressing (not just ironing!) can make or break the quality of your finished garment. It’s the difference between “Did you make that?” and “Where did you buy that?”
Pressing vs. Ironing — What’s the Difference?
Ironing - quite frankly is a domestic chore best avoided - it’s about removing creases from fabric, often with long back-and-forth sweeps across the cloth.
Pressing, however, is more precise. It’s about applying heat, steam, and sometimes pressure to shape and set your sewing at every stage. Instead of sliding the iron, you lift and press, working deliberately along seams, darts, hems, and edges.
This subtle difference changes everything: pressing is part of the construction process, not just the finishing.
Why Pressing is Essential
1. It Sets the Shape as You Sew
When you sew a seam, the stitches alone won’t make it lie flat. Pressing the seam open (or to one side, depending on the technique) helps the fabric relax and take on its new shape. This is particularly important on curved seams - think bust darts, princess lines, or armholes - where you’re encouraging the fabric to mould to the body.
2. It Improves Accuracy
A crisp pressed edge gives you a reliable guide for topstitching, hemming, and matching seam lines. Wobbly edges often come from skipping the pressing stage, and that’s when your sewing starts to look “home-made” rather than “hand-crafted.”
3. It Adds a Professional Finish
Flat seams, sharp creases, and neat hems are what make your garments look shop-bought (in the best way). Pressing between each construction step ensures that by the time you’re done, there’s no last-minute battle to tame puckers and bumps.
4. It Helps Fabrics Behave
Some fabrics - linen, wool, cotton - respond beautifully to pressing, becoming softer and more cooperative. Others, like silk or polyester, require a gentler approach, but still benefit from the shaping and setting that pressing provides.
When to Press (Hint: Always)
Here’s a simple golden rule:
Press every seam after you sew it.
Think of your garment like a cake - you wouldn’t bake it all at once without preparing the layers. Pressing between steps means each layer is perfect before moving on.
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Before sewing: Press fabric to remove fold lines and distortions from storage.
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After each seam: Press as sewn (without opening it) to set the stitches, then press open or to the side.
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Before finishing: Press hems, facings, pleats, and collars into place before topstitching.
Tools to Take Your Pressing to the Next Level
You don’t need a fancy iron (though a good steam burst helps), but a few inexpensive pressing aids make a world of difference:
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Tailor’s ham – Perfect for pressing curved seams and darts without flattening the shape. Read the Tutorial on How to make you own
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Sleeve board – Ideal for narrow sleeves and trouser legs.
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Pressing cloth – Protects delicate fabrics from shine or scorching.
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Clapper – Holds steam in the fabric as it cools, giving you crisp edges and seams that stay put.
Pressing Tips for Different Fabrics
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Cotton & Linen: Can take high heat and plenty of steam, but always test first. Use a clapper for sharp creases.
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Wool: Loves steam - but hover the iron just above the fabric and use a pressing cloth for a smooth finish.
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Silk: Press on the wrong side with low heat, using a pressing cloth. Avoid too much steam.
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Synthetics: Use a low setting and light pressure because they can melt or distort easily.
The Final Word
Pressing isn’t optional - it’s the secret ingredient in well-made clothes. It’s where your garment really comes to life, where the flat fabric transforms into something that drapes, fits, and looks every bit as beautiful as you imagined.
Next time you’re tempted to skip it, remember: every press is an investment in the quality and longevity of your make.
So, plug in that iron. Your sewing will thank you.