What is Viscose Fabric

Viscose is one of those fabrics that pops up everywhere in the world of sewing and dressmaking. If you’ve ever run your hands over a soft, drapey fabric with a silky sheen and a weight that just falls beautifully, chances are it was viscose.

But what is viscose, really? How is it made? And in an age where we care more than ever about the environmental impact of our sewing choices, is viscose a friend or foe of the planet?

Let’s dive deep into the world of viscose: from its origins and production to its environmental footprint and its strengths in dressmaking.

So what exactly is Viscose?

Viscose is a semi-synthetic fibre. That might sound like a contradiction, but here’s what it means:

• The raw material comes from nature - specifically, cellulose derived from wood pulp or sometimes bamboo.
  

• The manufacturing process, however, is chemical. That natural cellulose is heavily processed before it becomes the smooth, flowing threads we know as viscose.
  

It’s part of the rayon family, a group of regenerated cellulose fibres that also includes modal and lyocell. If you’ve ever heard someone use “rayon” and “viscose” interchangeably, they’re not completely wrong, viscose is simply one type of rayon.

Historically, viscose was developed in the late 19th century as a cheaper, plant-based alternative to silk, sometimes even called “artificial silk.” This gives us a clue about its best feature: its drape. Viscose flows and moves in a way that cotton and linen rarely can, making it a go-to fabric for fluid dresses, blouses, and skirts.

How is Viscose Made?

Understanding how viscose is produced helps explain both its unique characteristics and its environmental challenges.

1. Harvesting the cellulose
   The journey begins with wood pulp, often from fast-growing trees like beech, spruce, or eucalyptus. In some cases, bamboo is used as the cellulose source (although “bamboo viscose” is not the same as mechanically processed bamboo linen).
   

2. Chemical processing into a pulp
   The wood is chipped and treated with chemicals—traditionally sodium hydroxide—to create alkali cellulose.
   

3. Xanthation and spinning solution
   The alkali cellulose reacts with carbon disulphide to form a substance called cellulose xanthate. This is then dissolved in more sodium hydroxide to make a honey-like, sticky liquid called viscose.
   

4. Extrusion into fibres
   This viscose liquid is forced through a spinneret (think of a showerhead with extremely fine holes) into a chemical bath. The chemicals in the bath regenerate the cellulose, forming filaments of fibre that are then spun into yarn.
   

5. Weaving or knitting into fabric
   These yarns are woven or knitted into fabrics, which can range from smooth and shiny to matte and textured depending on the finish.
   

The name “viscose” actually comes from the viscous solution stage in this process.

The Environmental Impact of Viscose

While viscose is plant-based, its environmental reputation is… complicated. Let’s break down the pros and cons.

The Pros

1. Biodegradable
   Unlike fully synthetic fibres such as polyester, viscose is biodegradable because it’s ultimately made of cellulose. Under the right conditions, it will break down over time.
   

2. Derived from renewable resources
   The base material - wood or bamboo - is renewable, unlike fossil fuel–based fabrics.
   

3. Soft, breathable, and durable
   Because viscose is comfortable and long-wearing, garments can have a longer life, which is always a win for sustainability.
   
   

The Cons

1. Chemical-heavy production
   The traditional viscose process uses carbon disulphide, a toxic chemical that can be harmful to both workers and the environment if not properly managed.
   

2. Deforestation risks
   If the wood pulp comes from unsustainable forestry, viscose production can contribute to deforestation. Clearing forests for pulpwood plantations threatens biodiversity and increases carbon emissions.
   

3. Water pollution
   Without strict controls, the chemicals used to make viscose can leak into waterways, causing serious environmental damage.
   

The Rise of Sustainable Viscose

In recent years, there has been a push for cleaner viscose production, often referred to as EcoVero, responsibly sourced viscose, or closed-loop rayon.

• Lyocell (Tencel) is a good example of a more sustainable approach. It uses a closed-loop process where the majority of the solvent is captured and reused, dramatically reducing pollution.
  

• FSC-certified viscose ensures the wood pulp comes from sustainably managed forests.
  

If you want to sew more sustainably, check the label or supplier information. Words like EcoVero or Tencel signal a better environmental story.

Why Dressmakers Love Viscose

Viscose is one of the most versatile and rewarding fabrics for garment sewing, especially if you want fluidity and movement. Here’s why it shines:

1. Drape and Flow
   Viscose has a gorgeous drape, perfect for garments that need to skim the body rather than hold a structured shape. Think of:
   

• Swishy skirts
  

• Bias-cut dresses
  

• Blouses with a romantic, fluttery feel
  
  

2. Comfort
   It’s breathable and cool to wear, which makes it brilliant for summer garments and holiday wardrobes.
   

3. Silky Look for Less
   Viscose often mimics silk without the price tag or the trickiness of sewing with real silk.
   

4. Print-Friendly
   Viscose takes colour and prints beautifully, which is why so many floral and patterned dress fabrics are viscose-based.
   

Tips for Sewing with Viscose

While viscose is a joy to wear, it can be a little tricky to sew if you’re not prepared. Here are my tried-and-tested tips:

1. Pre-wash the fabric
   Viscose can shrink, so always wash and dry it before cutting.
   

2. Use fine, sharp needles
   A size 70/10 or 75/11 needle works well for delicate viscose fabrics to avoid snagging.
   

3. Handle with care
   Viscose can be slippery. Use plenty of pins or pattern weights, and consider cutting on a single layer if accuracy is crucial.
   

4. Stabilise seams if needed
   If you’re sewing something with bias seams or very drapey areas, a light stay tape or interfacing can help prevent stretching.
   

5. Press gently
   Use a cool-to-medium iron and a press cloth - viscose can scorch if overheated.
   
   

What Can You Make with Viscose?

Viscose is a dressmaker’s dream for soft, flowing garments. Some project ideas include:

• Summer dresses and maxi dresses
  

• Floaty blouses and tops
  

• Wide-leg trousers and palazzo pants
  

• Bias-cut skirts or slip skirts
  

• Kimonos and lightweight layering jackets
  
  

If you’re a beginner, try something simple first. Lots of our patterns work really well with Viscose  - Jessica, Ada and Angelica Dresses, Cressida and Cleo Jumpsuits and even the Nell and Ariel Trousers make up beautifully too.  Why not check out All the Patterns. 

Should You Choose Viscose?

Whether viscose is the right choice for you depends on your priorities:

• If you love drape, softness, and wearability, viscose is unbeatable.
  

• If you’re mindful of the planet, look for EcoVero or FSC-certified viscose to reduce your environmental footprint.
  

• If you want maximum durability, viscose does need care - handwashing or gentle machine cycles will keep it looking lovely.
  

Why not have a look at all the Viscose Fabrics we have in store and see what takes your fancy. Most of them are deadstock so you will be saving them from landfill too. 

Overall

Viscose is a fascinating fabric: part natural, part human-made, full of movement, and endlessly useful in dressmaking. While its environmental impact can be concerning, improvements in sourcing and cleaner manufacturing are making viscose a better choice for eco-conscious sewists.

From swishy summer dresses to elegant blouses, viscose brings a sense of luxury and flow to our handmade wardrobes. If you treat it with care—both in your sewing room and in your shopping choices—it can be a beautiful, wearable, and (potentially) responsible addition to your sewing projects.

Jules x