As a dressmaker and someone who sells fabrics, I often get asked: “What’s better — deadstock or sustainable fabrics?” The honest answer? It’s not a simple either/or. Each has its place, its benefits, and a few things to keep in mind. So whether you’re stitching up your own summer dress or deciding what fabrics to add to your sewing stash, here’s a down-to-earth guide to what these terms really mean, and why they matter.
Let’s break it down.
First Things First: What Is “Sustainable Fabric”?
Sustainable fabrics are materials made with the intention of reducing harm - to the environment, the people who make them, and the world around us. Sounds pretty good, right? But sustainability is an increasingly wide umbrella term, so let’s get specific.
Things that can make a fabric “sustainable”:
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Ethical sourcing - The people who grew or harvested the raw material (cotton, hemp, flax, etc.) were paid and treated fairly.
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Eco-conscious farming - Often organic, using fewer pesticides or less water than conventional farming.
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Lower-impact processing - Uses natural or closed-loop dyeing systems, minimal chemicals, or renewable energy.
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Biodegradability - Natural fibres that won’t sit in landfill for hundreds of years.
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Certifications - Such as GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) or OEKO-TEX® which ensure ethical and environmental standards have been met.
So if you see a sustainably produced cotton or linen, it means effort has gone into making it less damaging and more responsible across its lifecycle.
And What About Deadstock Fabric?
Deadstock fabrics are materials that were originally produced for another brand, designer, or manufacturer, but never got used. Maybe a factory over-ordered. Maybe a fashion label changed their colour palette last minute. Whatever the reason, these leftover rolls would usually end up in landfill or incineration… unless someone rescues them.
Usually these are sold off by the original manufacturer in larger quantities and bought up by textile agents, who then split or reduce the rolls of fabric and pass them down the textile ‘foodchain’ to smaller manufacturers and retailers.
As a small retailer, I source deadstock fabrics specifically because they already exist. No extra resources. No extra carbon footprint. Just beautiful cloth, given a second chance at life.
Why Should You Care as a Dressmaker?
Let’s say you’re eyeing up some linen to make your next Jessica dress or a floaty cotton lawn for another summer top. You’re choosing more than just colour and print. You’re consciously selecting:
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How your fabric was made
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Who it was made by
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And what happens to it at the end of its life
It’s not about perfection or trying to justify your purchase, it’s just about being more mindful and considered in what you are choosing to buy.
The home sewing community has always been full of resourceful, thoughtful, and deeply creative people. So understanding your fabric’s backstory just makes your handmade clothes even more meaningful.
The Retailer’s Perspective: Choosing What to Stock
From my side of the cutting table, I’m always weighing up:
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What’s best for my customers?
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What reflects The Cloth Cutter’s values?
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And how can I keep things affordable and inspiring?
Sustainable fabrics often come from smaller, slower producers. Which is brilliant, and is definitely helping to keep artisan production methods viable, but it can also make them more expensive. Potentially pushing them out of the reach of a lot of dressmakers. Meanwhile, deadstock can potentially offer limited but often exquisite choices - at a better price point. I have stocked some gorgeous fabrics that were previously Paul Smith, Karen Millen and Whistles designed fabrics - to name but a few.
So I like to offer a mix. Here’s why:
Why I Love Sustainable Fabrics:
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They’re traceable and I know where they’ve come from and how they’ve been made.
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They’re consistent which is ideal for customers who want to re-order or test a fabric before committing.
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They tell a clear story, again perfect for those who want to vote with their wallet.
Why I Love Deadstock:
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It’s like treasure hunting, you never know what gems you’ll find.
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It saves fabric from landfill, which feels genuinely good.
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It makes the range of fabric I am able to stock more unique with small quantities, rare finds, limited editions.
So if you ever wonder why I only have three metres left of that delicious Japanese cotton? That’s why. When it’s gone, it’s gone.
The Environmental Side of Things
Deadstock: The rescue mission
Deadstock fabric reduces waste, full stop. It doesn’t require new resources to be produced, because it already exists. So by buying it, you’re preventing waste and making use of something that would otherwise go unused.
That said, not all deadstock is angelic. It may have been produced with harsh chemical dyes or under poor labour conditions initially. We just don’t always know. It’s a bit of a wildcard because you can’t always follow the trail back to where it was created. More transparency is definitely required in the textile industry.
Sustainable Fabrics: The long-term plan
Sustainable fabrics aim to change the system. They reduce environmental impact from the start, through farming, processing, and even biodegradability. They’re part of a movement toward regenerative fashion and textile practices which help to create a completely circular economy.
But - and it’s a big but - they still require resources to be produced in order to make them. So if overproduced or not used, even sustainable fabrics can contribute to environmental harm.
The golden rule? Use what you buy. And make it last.
The Emotional Side (Because We All Feel It)
We don’t just sew because we need clothes. We sew because it makes us feel good.
And choosing fabric is part of that joy. I have been party to plenty of fabric stroking myself.
Whether you’re the kind of dressmaker who loves knowing your cotton was grown without pesticides by a women’s co-op in India, or you’re a textile magpie who falls for a mysterious remnant with no backstory but a whole lot of potential - your choice is still valid.
You don’t need to be perfect to be conscious.
What About Quality?
There’s a myth that deadstock is somehow “less than”. In reality, it can be some of the best fabric available, especially when it comes from high-end fashion houses, tailors, or textile mills.
Some of the most luxurious linens and silks I’ve ever cut came from deadstock sources.
Sustainable fabrics can also be exceptional, but there is more variation in weight, weave, and consistency. Especially from smaller producers still finding their feet.
My advice? Always ask questions, feel the fabric, and if possible, order a sample. I’m always happy to help with that!
How You Can Shop (and Sew) More Mindfully
If you’re just getting into sewing, or just starting to think more about your fabric choices, here are a few easy ways to get started:
1. Buy with purpose
Ask yourself: What am I making? Will I wear it? Can I reuse the offcuts? If it’s a yes, then you’re on the right track.
2. Start with what you have
Your stash is part of the solution! Rediscover what’s hiding in those drawers before buying new. This is something the Diploma Ladies have been discovering as part of the course is devoted to recording your own fabric stash. It’s too easy to forget what you already have and just go and buy more.
3. Mix and match
Combine sustainable staples with fun deadstock finds. Treat sustainability as a spectrum, not a badge.
4. Ask your retailer
If you want to know how something was made, just ask. A good shop will tell you what they know (and be honest about what they don’t). It can be hard tracing a fabric’s origins, and this is something that really needs to change.
5. Keep learning
Trying to understand textiles is like diving into a rabbit warren, but in the best way. Understanding the lifecycle of your fabric will also add depth to your making. And you’ll never look at a dress the same way again.
Final Thoughts
Whether you choose deadstock, sustainable, or a blend of both, the most important thing is this:
You care.
You care enough to think about what you're using. You care enough to want to learn more. And you care about making clothes that reflect who you are - thoughtfully, creatively, and consciously.
So next time you pick up a piece of fabric, pause and think: What story does this tell? Because every stitch you work into it will make you a part of that story as well.
Happy sewing,
Jules x